We had a lot on our agenda today. Spending the morning on the beach, hitting the myriad shops in our area (seemingly all of which had massive sales), watching the two remaining quarterfinal matches, and exploring the Barri Gòtic, were our day’s plans.
Once again, the beach was perfect. Not overly populated this early in the day, too. The water was finally warm enough to do a bit of swimming in the gorgeous Mediterranean! Reading the newspapers on the beach is definetly a favorite past-time.


Back in our neighborhood, the streets were especially busy with Saturday afternoon shoppers. We popped in and out of some of the stores along the main street by the Playa Catalunya and walked along La Rambla, and then stopped off for lunch. The shopping continued for a bit, before gametime for the England v. Portugal match was approaching. Our search for a pub/restaurant with a good atmosphere and plenty of England fans did not bear fruit, with so little time to look. But we did find a nice restaurant with cheap drinks, where we were able to get the table closest to the massive plasma on the wall, and a good amount of supporters trickled in as well. Watching England go down in penalties -AGAIN- was painful to watch, and the game had a healthy dose of controversy. Since the match ended a full hour late, with extra time and penalties, we only had an hour afterwards to scout out our location for the Brazil v. France match at 9pm.

Another cracking match, France always seems to get the best of Brazil in late rounds, and the giants were toppled again. We were sitting in the France fan section, on the sidewalk café, and the Brazil fans across the way were not one bit happy about the result!

As for exploring the Barri Gòtic, fortunately we were already in the area when the match ended. AND, fortunately this area comes alive at night time! The denizens of Barcelona empty out onto the streets and plazas of the old city, which becomes so energetic when the sun goes down. This area of town had such an eclectic mix of restaraunts, tapas bars, lounges, cafés, etc. I’ve never been anywhere with such a vibrant nightlife.
Walking the streets here is such an adventure. It’s like a maze, where you can walk between dark, narrow, quiet pedestrian streets, and then happen upon a public square bustling with activity. Surprises were everywhere. I wish we had more time to spend here!

Continuing on our city tour, this morning we boarded the ‘blue’ tour bus, which took us south, up into the hills of Montjüic. Gorgeous views of the city! Looking west, you could see all the way across the valley, to the mountains west of the city. Looking eastward, you can see the beautiful harbor, with docked cruise ships, the world trade center, as well as the beaches. And from the middle, you could see everything inbetween. Many of the landmarks, including the Segrada Familia and the spires of some of the old gothic buildings, were visible too.
The top of Montjüic was unique unto itself. It felt miles away from the city because it was so quiet, and so verdant and pretty. Some of the structures up there were architectually amazing, while some, not so obvious in their purpose. Santiago Calatrava’s “communication tower” was… interesting. Anyone know what this was made for?
The Olympic swimming pool was amazing. Built right into the side of the hill, with the stands rising up the hill and facing the city below, the view was unbeatable.
We decided to search for the best vantage point to take pictures. I thought that the cable cars from the east of the mountain to the harbor would have to be the best possible place. But, before we even got there, we stopped for a snack at a restaurant on the way, which had the most amazing panoramic views. Realizing that leisurely relaxing with food and drinks while taking in the view, was probably much nicer than being packed like sardines into the cable car gondolas on a windy afternoon, we took a pass on the rickety cable cars.

Our tour finished by looping through the harbor and back through the Gothic quarter, to the Playa Catalunya. We were home, and then right back out in a hurry! We both wanted to hit the beach this afternoon, but there was no way we were going to miss the Germany v. Argentina quarterfinal! Like I said, traveling during the World Cup, ain’t easy!
We caught the game at this really cool beach bar, with a great atmosphere, and more than a hundred fans of both countries. The place went mad when Germany toppled the Argentines in a shootout.
After the game, at about 8pm, we went out onto the beach, which was still sunny, but a little less crowded. We relaxed by the ocean for a few hours, until shortly after it finally got dark. I’m a huge fan of any place where it gets dark at 11pm!
We took a taxi back across the city, went out for a late dinner in our neighborhood, and then wandered around the big Playa Catalunya until the small hours.

Our second day of exploration was AWESOME! Getting around, and seeing as much of Barcelona as we could, from the city, to the mountains, to the beaches, was something we had been really looking forward to. Prior to arriving, we thought that the best way of getting around town, was to use the same method of transport ever so popular in many European cities, ESPECIALLY Barcelona - so we looked into renting a Vespa scooter.
However. Literally ten minutes after stepping off the bus from the airport yesterday, we saw a man on a motor-scooter going about 40km/h collide with a man on a bicycle, and both of their behinds met the pavement.
Fortunately, they were both able to walk away - but with the sounds of screeching wheels, clanking metal and plastic, and people on the sidewalks screaming still fresh in our heads, we went ahead with Plan B.

Taking a tour bus was the best €22 we could've spent! Now, I have seen these sort of double-decker buses with the open top cruising around Philly and New York, and never really knew why anyone would want to ride on of them. But the 'Bus Touristic' was a 2-day ticket to ride on 3 different routes throughout the city. Plus, you could get on and off at any stop, and even use the bus for transportation, as you would a normal city bus.

This morning, the red route took us through the city, up into the hills in the west, and south, to Barcelona's holy shrine of football - Nou Camp.
Sitting in the very front on top of the bus, we had the best view of some of the most striking buildings I've ever seen. The architecture in Barcelona is... different. Very interesting. I couldnt believe some of these buildings actually got built!
When we reached Nou Camp (pronounced like 'new'), I could not get off the bus fast enough. Having watched dozens and dozens of Champions League and Primera Liga games at Barcelona's staduim down the years, it was hard to believe we were actually standing there.
The stadium tour was excellent, and a must for any fan. Inside the 100,000 seat staduim was unreal. Walking down on field level was cooler than I could've imagined. Walking through all the corridors and hallways, it was interesting to see the huge press and meeting rooms, and even a few surprises like a chapel - probably packed when they play Real Madrid! The 50ft long trophy case was also impressive.


After lunch, we took the number 41 to the beach, where we lounged under the Mediterranean sun. The weather was perfect, but the water was a tad chilly. Clothing-optional beaches really are quite a scene - talk about 'good, bad, and uuuugly'!
Not pleased with the sight of an older gentleman on a stark-naked stroll walking uncomfortably close to my towel, I decided I could use a nap. I have no idea how long I was out.

I love getting up at quarter to four in the morning! I'm lying, but actually it wasn't that bad today (why does it begin to get light this early in Vienna?!) We knew today would be an adventure, but didnt know that the adventure would begin before the sun even came up.
Finally, the day had come for the start of our Barcelona trip! Budget European carriers are known for being a great way to scout out low fares to almost anywhere on the continent. They are also known for causing a few headaches, one of which is not flying out of major airports. So, our itinerary: Bratislava, Slovakia - Barcelona, Spain.
After napping for most of the flight, I woke up during the descent, over the beautiful clear water of the Mediterranean. When we landed at about 10:30am, the weather was PERFECT.
Central Europe, to Eastern Europe, to the Iberian Peninsula... all before noon!
We took the airport shuttle into the city. We got off at Playa Catalunya, just blocks from where we were staying, in what could be described as the Times Square of Barcelona!
But just off of the huge Playa Catalunya square, and the broad streets of the infamous "La Rambla", were a labarynth of extremely narrow, criss-crossing, Venice-like streets. This made finding the exact location of our place a bit of a task.
After getting settled in, we were back out on the streets, with a full day ahead of us to explore. Making our way down La Rambla had the same feel of most 'tourist-trap' areas in any city. Too many people, street musicians, performers painted head to toe posing as statues (startling the crap out of tourists), overpriced sidewalk cafes, the nagging feeling that you've just been pickpocketed (major problem in Barca), and far too many pigeons! Despite all this, it really is a much see - not that we had a choice, since it was practically right out our door!

Reaching the end of La Rambla, you cross a beautiful promenade and reach the beginning of the harbor, which has beautiful marinas, cable cars, and a really excellent shopping mall.
Wandering further east, we kept seeing people on motor scooters in swimming trunks and bikinis with sandy legs, so we could tell we were nearing the beach. Stretching from the harbor in the south, all the way past the Porto Olímpico going north, Barcelona's beaches were absolutely gorgeous.

I may not have been able to resist the temptation to sprint into the blue water with my clothes on, were it not for our quest to find some real, authentic Catalan food.
We knew this meant getting off the beaten path a bit. So from the beach area, we cut inland, and sought out the seediest neighborhood we could find. Paydirt. After some searching, we found an awesome, nondescript little seafood restaraunt buried within some interesting little neighborhood. I would highly recommend this restaraunt - but I cannot remember its name, and couldn't find it again if I tried!
While we waited for our table, Babsi ordered a pitcher of Sangria, while I salivated at the menu. Worth ever;y minute of the wait, we shared a massive seafood Paella, with muscles, clams, pork, saffron, and prawns the size of my hand! After the whole thing somehow disappeared, along with a bottle of Rioja, we had a Cava sorbet and then limped home.

The last couple of days have been spend decompressing after a completely gruelling week. A half-dozen loads of laundry were done, double-digit hours of sleep were had, and plenty of errands were run.

Today justice was had, when Brazil spanked Ghana 3-0! However, yesterday, my sympathies were with the Socceroos, as Australia had their World Cup dreams torn apart by a last-play-of-the-game B.S. penalty call, which was highly reminiscent of the USA-Ghana game 4 days before. (Italy, your days are numbered!)
Today, France were the business, undoing Spain 3-1 in the last game of the second round (Zizou has got at least another 10 years in him!!)

Lights out early tonight. alarm set for 3:30am!! Why? wait and see...

(stuttgart)

Just what the doctor ordered, a RELAXING day! Sleeping in hit the spot, and the amazing breakfast and leisurely morning in Verena's back yard were just what the five of us needed.

The afternoon was just as nice. Our Austrian / Australian / German / American cartel trekked it over to the neighborhood pool! Floating was the extent of the physical activity I was able to muster (although a few requisite trips off the high-dive surely wow'ed the crowd of onlookers)! Lounging in the shade eating ice cream, couldn't have gone more 'swimmingly'.

Planning our traveling around the World Cup matches has not been easy, but we've managed to catch pretty much all of the matches. But today, we would have to fit the small matter of a 7 hour drive from Stuttgart to Vienna, around the day's two matches. We watched England beat Ecuador, and then said good bye to Uli and Verena and James, whom we felt like we knew a lot longer than 24 hours!
Unfortunately, being on the road, we missed the highly controversial Portugal v. Holland game.
But the scenic drive through Bavaria was very, very nice.

(frankfurt - stuttgart)

Today was the first day of the round of 16. This is when the tournament comes alive. Win or go home. No more draws. When players step it up a level. Seperates the wheat from the chaff...
This morning, the W'Cup 2006 tour bus pulled out of Frankfurt and headed south on the A6, next stop: Stuttgart, for the fifth city in as many nights.
Lucky for us, we would be meeting up with some very enthused Germans, and going to Stuttgart's Schlossplatz to join 25,000 people in watching Germany's second round opener against Sweden. We made it to Verena's house just outside of Stuttgart, where Uli and Verena's Aussie friend James, were also visiting.
Uli and Verena, the two Germans, greeted us at the door, decked out in their black, red, and yellow. James, who'd just survived a 22 hour flight from Melbourne to Singapore to Frankfurt, was recovering.
We were smart to get down to Stuttgart almost 2 hours early, as the town square became so jam-packed that the gates had to be closed.
The heat didn't seem to phase the Germany fans. They either had too much adrenaline or too much alcohol to fear the daunting task of overturning the Swedes. Already confident of finding their way to the finals, the full attendance chanted in unison... 'WIR FAHREN NACH BERLIN! WIR FAHREN NACH BERLIN!'
Fortunately for all the fans, 12 minutes into the game, Podolski had already netted the 2 goals that would be enough to beat Sweden.

What followed the final whistle was just pandemonium! The fans emptied out into the streets, chanting and celebrating. The non-stop cacophony of hundreds of simultaneous carhorns blaring, was just too funny not to participate in!

The evening, we opted for a little more laidback venue at which to watch the next match - Argentina v. Mexico. A great Beer Garden up in the hills north of Stuttgart suited us just fine. The food and beer was fantastic, and being able to sit and relax while watching, was a very welcomed respite from the high-energy atmospheres we'd become used to.
While I was completely exhausted from the day's heat and the week's travels, I had no idea how James was still alert on his first day, after such a grueling flight and an 8 hr time difference from Australia!
Tomorrow, a little R&R is in order. Note to self: stay away from crowds of shouting Piefkes...

(nürnberg - frankfurt)

Nürnberg, I have to admit, was not one of the cities I was most excited to explore. Until today, all I had seen of the city was a 2km stretch of road between the highway and the hotel, underground subway stations, and a few minutes' glimpse from the train to the stadium, of the rundown buildings in the east of the city. What little I knew about it included its dark past, including the Third Reich and the Nürnberg Trials following WWII.
What we would've MISSED, had we not spent the day here, is an extremely photogenic city with a ton of interesting art and beautifully restored medieval buildings. I definetly did not to expect to take as many fotos as i did while traipsing around Nürnberg.
(click pics to enlarge)

WARNING: if you plan to come here and explore on foot, which i absolutely reccomend, it is all UPHILL! Its sinuous, cobbled roads are quaint, but somehow you will find yourself walking UP, without end. Before I could figure out how this was physically possible, I was too lightheaded from altitude to think.

The afternoon drive back north went by in a flash, as I was awake for for exactly zero seconds of it.
Getting back in time for our second installment of Fan Fest Frankfurt was atop the evening's agenda. France v. Togo. The city was still buzzing from the week's action, and the remaining miscellaneous orange 'stuff' in streets showed that they had taken a beating from the Holland fans a few nights ago.
We were very lucky to get the good seats we got, in another packed house on the Main river. We cheered on a skin-of-their-teeth French side to a 2-0 victory, and a spot in the second round.


This last game of the first round brought me to a harsh realization about the tournament, and regarding my travels...
-the best way to keep up and stay current with the tournament's rankings/scores/news/stats: DO NOT COME TO GERMANY!
That's right, go somewhere else - or better yet, stay home! Participating in the tournament, and knowing what's going on, are completely independent of eachother, and do not go hand in hand. Since arriving here, having gone to a game yesterday, watched in the best possible venues, and celebrated with some of the most diehard fans anywhere -- I haven't had a CLUE what was ACTUALLY going on in the tournament!! The second round begins tomorrow, and I have only a vague idea of who's still alive and who's gone home, and i sure don't know who in the hell is playing whom! The odd bit of time i get to hop on the internet is simply not substantial enough for the usual amount of football info i take in on a regular basis! I'm off to go play catch up...
STUGGI TOMORROW!!